Climbing Indian Nose
The most striking topographical feature on the north shore of Lake Atitlan is not a volcano, but a peak called Indian Nose. Also called Cerro Cristalino and El Indio, this 2,863-meter mountain presents one of the most rewarding climbs in Guatemala.
In addition to singular vistas of the lake and the volcanoes, you'll witness superb views of the towns of San Juan and San Pedro (home of Restaurante D'Noz, whose name was in part inspired by Indian Nose).
From San Marcos, San Pedro or San Juan, you can reach the peak in a few hours, depending on whether you walk or take a pick-up or bus part of the way.
Along the Way
Indian Nose, though a shorter climb than Volcan San Pedro, is steeper, with an incline of around 60 degrees at the outset and which grows even steeper near the top. Along the way, you'll pass neat, towering fields of coffee and corn, and say "Hola!" to Maya of all ages toting goods on their backs.
It's a 1.5 to 2 hour hike from the base at San Juan to the top. About 2,100 meters up, you will appreciate a mirador with panoramic view that also makes a good place to rest. There are other miradors along the way, but none after you hit the "neck."
From the neck, it takes about a half-hour to climb to the peak. A ceremonial site there still used by local Maya. If you happen across a ceremony, don't take photos and keep your voice down.
For the best photos of the lake, get to the top a half-hour to an hour before sunrise. This means either leaving by 4:00 AM and hiking in the dark, or camping overnight. If you leave from San Juan, there is a Q30 entrance fee.
From Santa Clara, there is no fee, but you may be accosted by a San Juan rep; it's really up to you whether you pay or not, because the land belongs to Santa Clara, not San Juan.
Getting There
A guide is recommended, especially if you don't do much hiking. Guides are available at Casa Verde Tours and the hut next to the Panajachel dock in San Pedro. Casa Verde also has a San Marcos office.
In San Juan, the local guides have an easy-to-find office in the middle of town; just ask around for “guias.” In San Pedro, geologist Matt Purvis works with local guides to provide an English-language overview of the lake and its geology (4091-7051).
To do a self-guided tour from San Pedro, you should leave by 9:00 AM. You can walk or tuk tuk to San Juan, then catch a pick-up or walk (a half-hour or so) to Santa Clara. Then head up toward San Marcos turn left onto the first paved road to Santa Clara. At the village perimeter, take the first road on the left village to the end and head right to a sign not far below.
Even better, take a pick-up truck to Santa Clara from San Juan and San Pedro and follow the above directions. (Please note that if you choose to go without a guide, Atitlan Sol and/or its writers and editors will not be responsible if you get lost.) We have heard no reports of “banditos” in the past year, but don't carry a lot of cash or wear jewelry.
What to Take
Wear hiking shoes or boots. Take a poncho in case of rain, a flashlight, food and water. Wear long pants and take a long-sleeve shirt or jacket if spending the night. Ask about recent weather conditions while planning your hike.
The three to four hour climb from the park entrance to the volcano summit winds through coffee plantations, maize fields and pine forest. Halfway, there's a lookout point with a view over the town and across to Indian Nose. This is a good place to consider the rest of the climb. The path gets steeper from here, and it's still over an hour-and-a-half to the top. Hikers in good shape and with proper footwear (boots or hiking shoes, not thongs) can make it without any problems.