Day Trip to San Marcos

Tall reeds wave a greeting at the San Marcos dock, where a five-minute stroll along the lake leads to the public beach. It's a 10-minute boat ride from San Pedro, and also close enough for a day trip from Santa Cruz and Panajachel.

Shaded by overhanging tree limbs, the beach curves gently around to the rocks, where you can jump off a towering boulder into the water. Stairs lead up from the beach to a path that goes left to Bungalows Aaculaax and Moonfish, an open air restaurant with good views and prices.

If you like hiking, continue up the hillside path to the "Sacred Area," which offers a secluded and lofty view of the lake. Like the beach, it is a good place for a picnic or box lunch.

Near the peak is a big medicine wheel made of stones. It appears that wood, not incense, was most recently burned there, so it is apparently not a genuine Maya ceremonial site.

The Sacred Area is also fine for a picnic; if you don't bring food, you can get something to go from Moonfish or Aaculaax.

Into the Heart of San Marcos

Returning from this side of San Marcos, the path leads into the main part of town. Walking through fragrant stands of pine and cedar is like entering an enchanted forest. At times I almost expected to see flying monkeys overhead.

Banana trees, flowers, lush vegetation, loads of lizards and butterflies?this part of the lake feels more tropical than the San Pedro/Santiago side. A pleasant breeze and the sound of the surf lapping at the rocks add to the magical experience.

Several trails connect the main "streets" of the lower part of San Marcos. Until you hit el centro at the top, the streets are too narrow for anything but bikes.

Fewer locals ride motorcycles than in Pana or San Pedro, and little music is heard from bars and restaurants. It is far more quiet and peaceful here, so tranquil that just strolling through San Marcos qualifies as meditating.

More Things to Do and See

Besides the beach and hiking, you can rent a bike or take a guided tour. Don't miss the Great Wall of Flor de Cana Bottles at Bungalows Aaculaax, where recycled bottles form a wall beside stairs to the restaurant.

Many facilities offer massages and workshops, Chakra reading, yoga, Tarot cards, Angel cards and related activities. Aaculaax has a workshop in making stained glass. Clay sculpture classes are held at Moonfish.

Esoteric types of therapy and meditation are advertised on boards around the town. Two Spanish schools are in town for those staying a week or longer.

Shops are scarce, but you can stock up on hard to find items like massage oils, incense, natural shampoos and soaps, and therapeutic teas such as purple basil.

Nightlife and Restaurants

From pizza at Blind Lemon's and Los Abrazos, to seafood at lakeside Tul y Sol, to Happy Tacos, the variety of food in San Marcos covers everything from vegetarian sushi to surf and turf. You can even get blue corn quesadillas at Bungalows Aaculaax.

San Marcos was once known for having almost zero nightlife. Now you can hang out at "Little Antigua," as Blind Lemon's is known, and listen to live music or watch first-run movies. Baraka Cafe and Aacuulax also have live music on some nights.

The newest restaurant in town, Snack Shack, opened in June, 2009. Their speciality is sandwiches made with the Italian-style bread from Fata Morgana in San Pedro.

Hotels and Hostels

You'll find a wide selection of rooms from Q100 and up. Hotel Unicornio, Bungalows Aaculaax, Hotel La Paz, Posada del Bosque, Hostal del Lago and Hotel Schumann are all comfortable and convenient places to stay.

Getting to San Marcos la Laguna

It's a 15-minute boat ride from San Pedro, 30 from Santa Cruz and 45 from Pana. Tuk tuks run to and from San Pedro for Q40.