A Day Trip to Santiago, Lake Atitlan

A boat ride from Panajachel or San Pedro, Santiago is the largest town on this side of the lake. Yet it is small enough that you can see all the sights in a few hours and have time for lunch or dinner. If spending the night, Posada de Santiago is the town's top hotel.

From the dock, walk up the gentle slope to the first intersection. Head left and you'll arrive at the mercado. The big market day is Friday. Along the way, you'll encounter shops selling a variety of works by Maya artisans. The specialty that is made here is hand-carved animals and marine life. One shop even had a carving of a koala bear. The shop owner, when asked, insisted that, "Yes, the koalas live high in the trees in Guatemala."

Back to the intersection and uphill takes you to the big church, definitely a must-see for the intricately carved altar, the statue of St. James and other religious effigies.

To the right of the church and uphill a few blocks, the local Maximon shrine is also worth a peek. It's not marked but is easy to find by asking around. Take rum, smokes and cash if you want to get on Maximon's good side. You can see Maximon on Holy Wednesday of Semana Santa at the cathedral. On Good Friday, Maximon takes part in a huge and colorful religious spectacle.

An assortment of tours includes horseback rides and hikes to an ancient Maya ruin, the volcanoes and a mirador from which you can sometimes see the Pacific Ocean. For the best service book through a local hotel.

There are several very nice hotels, such as Posada Santiago, if you plan to spend a night or two. Posada de Santiago has a BBQ on the shore as well as a huge dining room and an excellent wine list. You will find a few budget hotels and a variety of inexpensive restaurants near the docks.

The only regular nightlife in Santiago takes place on Saturday night, with bands and dancing at Posada de Santiago.